"ATT_calc_base_name_or_package_color_": "Walnut", "ATT_calc_base_name_or_package_color_": "Golden Oak", (You can also take care to align the grain on the plug with the grain of the stair.) Then cut/plane/sand the plug flush to the stair, and stain the plug it will be almost invisible."ItemThumbnailImage": "///is/image/sw/paint_template-1?layer=comp&wid=250&fmt=jpeg&qlt=92%2c0&op_sharpen=0&resMode=sharp2&op_usm=0.0%2c0.0%2c0%2c0&iccEmbed=0&printRes=150&_tparam_layer_1_src=sw/Minwax_WoodPutty_GoldenOak", Glue a plug into each drilled hole, being careful not to let any squeeze-out get onto the protruding part of the plug. Use the drill to widen the nail hole (you only need to go about 1/8" deep), Then, use the plug cutter to cut plugs from a scrap piece of the same kind of wood as the stair. What you need is to get a drill bit and a plug cutter of the same diameter. Several woodworking supply houses even sell tiny specialty planes that will cut the sliver the right size for hiding a brad.īut your problem is different, because the holes are already there. The first is to use a chisel to lift a sliver of the stair's wood (leaving it still attached at one end), driving your nail and burying it with a nail set, staining the sliver along with the rest of the stair, and (after the stain dries) gluing the sliver back down again. There are two other methods to hide the nails/nail holes, but they require a little more effort.
Mix it with a wood glue that dries clear (like Elmer's white glue) and use it to fill the nail holes.
Start with sawdust or sanding dust (depending on how tight you want the filler's final 'grain' to be, and then stain it with the same stain that you used on the stairs. The other suggestions (above) are a partially acceptable answer, but the best method is to make your own filler. Filler won't stain well because the glue seals off those pores. Stain (as opposed to dye) works by getting into the severed pores of the wood. Wood filler is basically just wood and sawdust. Minwax also makes touch-up markers, but I think they contain stain, so if the filled spots aren't taking stain in the first place, these might not be a good solution.
I prefer Sharpie brand for this because I believe it's an alcohol dye. It's waxy like a crayon or China marker.Īs Rudy said, you can color the light filler with a permanent Magic Marker. The Minwax pencil product is called Blend-Fil.
I've used both and have a slight preference for the Varathane. But like DC5, my experience staining it hasn't been so great.Įlmer's and Varathane brand wood fillers are available in colors. Minwax wood filler is supposed to be stainabe. Definitely yes to the other two questions. Possibly yes to the first question, depending on what filler he used. Is there a different kind of filler that he should have used that accepts stain? If not are there fillers that come pre-colored to that would match better than what is seen in the photo? Is there a way to darken the current filler that was already used?
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